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There is a lot of news about American designer Marc Jacobs leaving due to sluggish brand performance, but he made it clear in an interview recently that he will not leave his eponymous brand company. And in order to coincide with the September New York Fashion Week schedule is one day shorter than usual, Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2018 will be held at 6pm on September 13. In the face of rumours in the industry, he said, “We are all doing our best to prepare for new collections and upcoming fashion weeks, and I have nothing else to say.” ”

Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2017 collection

The performance deficit is the one that LVMH is most worried about?

Marc Jacobs has been behind bars in recent years. Marc Jacobs left Louis Vuitton’s creative director in October 2013 and has been focusing on the eponymous brand for almost four years. During this period, there were rumors that Marc Jacobs was about to go public, but then there were frequent personnel changes and internal adjustments, Robert Duffy, a friend who has worked with the designer himself since 1984, stepped down from the company’s leading role, and former CEO Sebastian Suhl failed to inject a shot in the arm into the brand. He closed Marc by Marc Jacobs, a sub-brand that he once thought would broaden the people-friendly market for the brand, and then closed brand stores in many places, and then completely closed the menswear business. Marc Jacobs and his brand are like a boat lost in the storm, and even Bernard Armault, CEO of LVMH, once the strongest supporter, made a startling statement in a conference call with investors in January: “I am more worried about Marc Jacobs than the president of the United States.” ”

In July, Eric Marechalle was officially appointed by LVMH as Marc Jacobs’ new CEO. Can the former Kenzo CEO help Marc Jacobs stand out in today’s competitive and incentivized environment as he led Kenzo? It is not known, but the ongoing personnel turmoil and corporate restructuring send signals of instability.

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2017 collection

Clarify rumors and it’s business as usual

Although LVMH does not release specific performance figures for individual Maisons, LVMH CEO Bernard Armault made it clear on an analyst call after the release of fiscal 2016 fourth-quarter figures that Marc Jacobs has “run a deficit.” After LVMH sold DKNY, an American brand that also lost money in the same row, to the US clothing company G-III Apparel last year, industry analysts generally believe that LVMH is open to selling other loss-making brands, and perhaps Marc Jacobs is next. After all, he has become a shortcoming in LVMH’s vast commercial landscape.

Designer Marc Jacobs

While there was bold speculation about where Marc Jacobs and his brand were headed, Marc Jacobs himself came forward to clear up these disturbing and troubling rumors, saying that they had undoubtedly had a negative impact on the team. And he has nothing else to say except to work day and night for the upcoming big show next month.

Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016 collection

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2016 collection

The GRUNGE style that accompanied the controversy

Marc Jacobs in his youth was full of rebellion and adventurous spirit. After joining Perry Ellis in 1988 as design director of womenswear, he created designs that did not fit with the latter’s understated and easy-going ethos. It all hit zero in 1992, the year Marc Jacobs was named “Designer of the Year” by the CFDA, and the 29-year-old designer was fired for making “Grunge” a runway after Perry Ellis’ spring/summer 1993 show.

Perry Ellis Spring/Summer 1993 collection

Grunge, meaning “dirty thing”, represents the grunge music popular in the 90s of the 20th century. And Marc Jacobs on this controversial show, let Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Tyra Banks and other supermodels wear loose and fat khaki pants, silk petticoats, and knitwear worn by rumpled grandmothers. The collection has been controversial for its casual and sloppy design, which many prestige in the industry consider challenging and trying to change the luxury of fashion. Even fashion editor Suzy Menkes said, “Grunge is offensive.” However, the show was later considered to be extremely rebellious and left an important mark in fashion history.

Louis Vuitton’s Louis Vuitton Art Show at the Hong Kong Museum of Art showcases Marc Jacobs’ 2001 Monogram Graffiti collection with Stephen Sprouse.

THE GOLDEN YEARS OF LOUIS VUITTON

BECOMING CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF LOUIS VUITTON IN 1997, MARC JACOBS SPENT A GOLDEN PERIOD WITH LOUIS VUITTON DURING HIS 16-YEAR TENURE. HE COLLABORATED WITH ARTIST STEPHEN SPROUSE TO LAUNCH THE MONOGRAM COLLECTION OF HANDBAGS WITH BRIGHT GRAFFITI AND THE CREATIVE USE OF TAKASHI MURAKAMI’S COLORFUL ANIMAL PRINTS, WHICH BECAME THE HOTTEST POP CULT THROUGHOUT HIS TENURE. CARRYING UBIQUITOUS PLASTIC WOVEN BAGS ONTO THE CATWALK, TRANSFORMING NAOMI CAMPBELL INTO A MASKED NURSE, AND PRESENTING THE FRENCH HOTEL’S FOYER, ELEVATOR, FOUNTAIN AND TRAIN STATION IN AN APPROPRIATE WAY, MARC JACOBS SHOWCASED HIS GHOSTLY CREATIVITY AND UNFORGETTABLE FASHION MEMORIES DURING THE LV PERIOD. Can MARC JACOBS still create a golden age in his personal brand? Only time will give us the answer.

Naomi Campbell wears nurse’s outfit at Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection

Written by | Chen Jixin

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Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2017 collection