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The importance of urban suits has weakened, and it is the traditional suit customization industry that has been directly affected. Famed Italian brand Brioni appointed a new creative director, Justin O’Shea, in April 2016, expecting him to turn the tide. Unfortunately, the trend is so good, Justin’s buyer experience and his popularity in street photography alone cannot turn the situation around. All changes will lead to the restructuring of resources and personnel, and Brioni, who supports half of the traditional suit, has to lay off 400 employees, of course, the “street shooting celebrity” Justin is not immune.

What wins in the change is to deconstruct the suit in line with the trend and make it easy and comfortable to wear. At the same time, focus menswear designs on knitwear, T-shirts, sneakers and lightweight jackets. In the words of designer Thom Browne: “

Today’s tailoring must be what men really want to wear, not what they feel they have to wear.

Nowadays, when it comes to the choice of autumn jackets, fashion websites and e-commerce buyers will launch jackets, or lightweight, waterproof, or workwear, street… Different styles and characteristics.

In fact, the style is not difficult to choose, everyone has basically been fixed, and the possibility of a large span change is that your appearance has changed significantly. And within our own style, we should pay attention to the details.

Like what


Is it a square collar jacket, a stand-up collar jacket, or a small lapel jacket? In similar styles, the diversity of design is designed to accommodate a wide variety of people.

And different body shapes, face shapes, fat and thin, suitable collars will be different. Let’s compare and analyze several jackets that are often worn in autumn.

Square neck jacket

Square neck jackets are the most common spring and autumn coats, light and easy to wear. Therefore, it is a basic jacket and suitable for everyone.

The square neckline can be raised or lowered as needed, and the neckline is closed without cramping, and it is easier to open the neck.

If you want to show off your mature charm, choose a stable dark color

If you want to look young and lively, choose light or bright colors

But clothes that fit everyone often don’t meet the unique requirements of individual boys.

Stand collar jacket will be younger and more personal.

Among stand-up jackets, we use Harrington jackets and flight jackets as examples.

Harrington jacket

The Harrington jacket, first designed for golf, stands tall.

A high collar means that it is not friendly enough for short-necked men. Moreover, it is not only friendly to short-necked men, but also to all large-faced, square-faced men.

Looking at the effect of fashionable people wearing similar standing collars, you can imagine how you want to wear it yourself.

Therefore, the more suitable Harrington jacket is the long-necked small-faced boy.

Flight jacket

The flight jacket has a lower collar than Harrington’s, and the neckline is mostly knitted elastic. But this does not mean easygoing, only that it is more youthful and energetic.

According to the principle of collar type and face shape, small collars are worn on men with big faces, like clothing binding the throat, and it is suffocating when you look at it.

So, men who are starting to make a fortune should not try small and sleek flight jackets.

Jacket with lapels

The most suitable collar type for men with short necks and big faces is lapels.

Therefore, suit collars are the most friendly to this type of man. If you look at the jacket style alone, the cargo jacket and military jacket designed with lapels are also calmly relaxed.

But boys with long necks and small faces don’t have to wear this way, and men with big faces can proudly think that they are not atmospheric enough and not as strong as their own aura.

That’s pretty much the same for jackets, even the quirky designs of Comme des Garcons and Rick Owens. As long as you know yourself and choose wisely, a plain and simple combination can make you elegant, elegant and generous.


The metaphysical is spiritual, and the metaphysical is material.

Graceful, pursuing both form and god.